5 Fashion Trends That Started as Ways to Hide Diseases

From clothing to accessories, humans have always used style as a form of survival—sometimes to hide disease, sometimes to avoid social stigma
Victorian era European fashion
5 Fashion Styles That Hid Illnesses in HistoryScanned by User:LA2 in October 2005, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Fashion is often acclaimed as a form of self-expression, art, and culture. But look closer, and you’ll see that many trends we now admire for their elegance or style actually originated as practical tools to conceal illness, scars, or physical vulnerabilities. From clothing to accessories, humans have always used style as a form of survival—sometimes to hide disease, sometimes to avoid social stigma. Here are five fascinating examples.

1. 1. High Collars: Concealing Tuberculosis Scars

Portrait of a young woman wearing a high collared dress, Seattle, ca. 1902-1904
Discover 5 fashion trends that began as ways to hide diseases and scars, from wigs to high collars.University of Washington, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

In the 19th century, tuberculosis was widespread and highly stigmatised. One of its more visible effects was swelling or lesions around the neck and collarbone, which could immediately reveal someone’s illness. To hide these marks, both men and women began wearing high, stiff collars that covered the neck entirely.

Over time, these collars became more elaborate, evolving into the iconic Victorian “high-neck” fashion, complete with lace, embroidery, and intricate tailoring. What began as a practical measure to avoid judgment gradually became a statement of refinement and elegance.

Legacy: Modern turtlenecks and high-neck blouses still echo this look, though today they are seen as stylish rather than functional.

2. 2. Powdered Wigs: Masking the Effects of Syphilis

While the Wig is Being Powdered
Fashion hides history—see how wigs, makeup, and gloves started as tools to conceal illness.Per Nordquist, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

In 17th- and 18th-century Europe, syphilis was a common and highly visible disease. Symptoms included hair loss, sores, and a distinct odour. Powdered wigs, or perukes, became a clever solution to disguise these signs.

Beyond mere concealment, wigs were heavily scented and powdered with flour, starch, or scented powders to mask unpleasant smells. They quickly became symbols of wealth, status, and power, worn by aristocrats, judges, and royalty.

Fun fact: King Louis XIV of France famously wore a wig to hide hair loss, unintentionally popularising the trend across the continent. What started as a medical necessity became a defining feature of European fashion for over a century.

3. 3. Heavy Makeup: Covering Smallpox Scars

A young lady getting ready
Learn how 5 iconic fashion trends were born out of survival and disease concealment.Düsseldorfer Auktionshaus, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Smallpox was one of the deadliest diseases before modern vaccines, leaving survivors with pockmarked faces. In response, people applied heavy layers of white powder and rouge to create the illusion of smooth, unblemished skin.

While effective for concealment, many of these cosmetics contained toxic ingredients such as lead or mercury, which could harm the skin or overall health. Yet despite the dangers, the practice shaped European beauty culture, particularly in France, where dramatic, theatrical makeup became a hallmark of court life.

Legacy: Today, foundation, concealer, and contouring trace their roots to these early attempts to mask physical imperfections.

4. 4. Canes: From Medical Aid to Fashion Statement

Alli Kudr, 1858–1869 Seated portrait of a man. He is seated in an ornately carved armchair, next to a table covered with a tablecloth with a paisley-like motif, while holding a cane with one hand.
Fashion Trends with Medical Roots You Didn’t KnowGetty's Open Content Program | Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License

Walking sticks or canes were originally used by people suffering from gout, arthritis, injuries, or other mobility issues. They offered discreet support, allowing individuals to maintain posture and mobility without drawing attention to weakness.

Over time, canes evolved into ornate fashion accessories. Wealthy men embellished them with silver, ivory, or gold, and some even had hidden compartments for coins, letters, or small weapons. The cane became a symbol of elegance, authority, and sophistication.

Legacy: Canes remain a stylish accessory in period dramas and cultural events, but their origin was rooted in health and practicality.

5. 5. Long Sleeves and Gloves: Hiding Skin Conditions

African American Woman Wearing White Gloves
History of Fashion Trends That Concealed IllnessGeorge Eastman House, No restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons

Skin diseases like eczema, leprosy, syphilis, or even visible tremors carried heavy social stigma. People used long sleeves, gloves, and fans to hide blemishes or trembling hands, protecting themselves from judgment or ostracism.

By the Victorian era, gloves had evolved into a symbol of refinement, modesty, and etiquette. Fashion and practicality merged: while the original intent was concealment, gloves became an essential accessory for formal occasions, often paired with long sleeves and high collars for a fully covered, polished look.

Modern relevance: Gloves have made a comeback in fashion, often for style, hygiene, or warmth—proving that what begins as necessity can evolve into elegance.

Conclusion

History shows that fashion is not purely about aesthetics; it is deeply intertwined with survival, social norms, and human ingenuity. Many trends we now admire—turtlenecks, wigs, dramatic makeup, canes, and gloves—were once practical solutions to hide disease and protect social standing.

These examples remind us that behind every style, there’s a story of adaptation, resilience, and creativity. Fashion doesn’t just reflect culture; it preserves history, often in the most unexpected ways.

Next time you pull on a turtleneck, admire an antique wig, or slip on a pair of elegant gloves, remember: you’re wearing a piece of history that once helped people navigate illness, stigma, and survival.

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