Social media and marketing buzzwords fuel widespread skincare misconceptions. Dr. Heleen Kibbelaar, a PhD chemist specializing in complex fluids (the science behind creams and serums), cuts through the noise with her expertise.
This comprehensive guide debunks seven persistent skincare myths by taking insights from Dr. Heleen Kibbelaar:
Myth: Products in jar packaging become contaminated and lose effectiveness.
Reality: Cosmetics in jar packaging are absolutely hygienic. Formulas can be designed with effective preservative systems that prevent microbial contamination, even with finger contact.
A review article published in PubMed, titled “Cosmetics Preservation: A Review on Present Strategies”, notes:
“Manufacturers of cosmetics use different strategies to prevent microbial contamination without affecting the properties of the product itself.” 1
According to Ruobing Min from the Institute of Chemical Engineering, University of Southampton, UK (Chemical Stability of Cosmetic Ingredients: Mechanisms of Degradation and Influencing Factors):
Active ingredients like retinol and vitamin C remain stable through:
Encapsulation technology that protects sensitive compounds
Stabilizing antioxidants such as vitamin E and ferulic acid
UV-protective packaging materials that limit light and oxygen exposure 2
Modern formulation science ensures that jar packaging is safe, stable, and effective when developed correctly.
Myth: Natural skincare ingredients are safer and more effective than synthetic alternatives.
Reality: Dr. Kibbelaar clarifies:
“There is no difference between how your skin reacts to natural or synthetic ingredients, because their chemical structure is the same. Natural and synthetic vitamin C are chemically identical.”
Research by Siona Solanki (Natural vs. Synthetic Ingredients in Skincare Products: Is One Better and Safer Than the Other?) concludes:
“Natural ingredients like green tea and aloe vera nourish the skin, while synthetic ingredients such as retinol and hyaluronic acid are more targeted and stable. Synthetic compounds offer precision and consistency, while natural ingredients can be gentler for sensitive users.” 3
The safety and efficacy of skincare depend on formulation quality, not whether ingredients are natural or synthetic.
Myth: You can judge skincare quality by reading the ingredient list.
Reality: Dr. Kibbelaar explains ,“The ingredient list is helpful for identifying allergens, but it doesn’t reveal formulation technologies, ingredient synergy, irritation potential, or actual effectiveness.”
Expert Tip: Don’t rely solely on ingredient lists, or social media reviews that do. Focus on scientific evidence, formulation quality, and brand transparency.
Myth: All fragrance in skincare causes allergies and irritation.
Reality: Dr. Henleen clarifies ,“Fragrances make products more pleasant to use. While they can cause allergies, this applies to a small percentage of the population. The context and formulation matter.”
According to Prof. Dr. W. Uter (Contact Allergy to Fragrances: Current Clinical and Regulatory Trends):
“The prevalence of sensitization in the general population lies between 1% and 3%.” 4
For most users, fragrances in well-formulated products are safe and enjoyable to use.
Myth: SPF 50 provides only marginally better sun protection than SPF 30.
Reality: Dr. Kibbelaar explains:
“Contrary to the popular claim that SPF 50 protects only 1% better than SPF 30, SPF 50 actually protects 1.5 times better. When applied equally and consistently, SPF 50 filters out more UV radiation for longer.”
A review in PubMed titled “Comprehensive Review of Ultraviolet Radiation and the Current Status on Sunscreens” reports:
SPF 15 - 93.3% UVB absorption
SPF 30 - 96.7% UVB absorption
SPF 45 - 97.8% UVB absorption
SPF 50 - 98% UVB absorption 5
That small percentage makes a big difference for prolonged sun exposure or inconsistent reapplication.
Myth: Skincare products with fewer ingredients are always better.
Reality: Dr. Kibbelaar notes:
Minimalism is trendy, but effectiveness often relies on synergy. Ingredients perform better together than alone.Dr. Heleen Kibbelaar, a PhD chemist
Faiza Hussain, Director of The Skin Shrink & Head of Research and Product Innovation at NEX Skincare, supports this in her research stating an example of Vitamin C:
“Vitamin C works best when paired with other stabilizing and antioxidant-enhancing ingredients to prevent oxidation.”
Fewer ingredients don’t automatically mean better, balance and synergy are what create effective formulations.
Understanding cosmetic chemistry empowers better skincare decisions. Rather than following viral trends or marketing hype, evaluate products based on:
Scientific research supporting ingredient efficacy
Complete formulations, not isolated components
Your personal skin needs and sensitivities
Expert recommendations from dermatologists and chemists
Dr. Heleen Kibbelaar’s evidence-based approach proves that molecular structure and not the marketing determines skincare performance.
Are natural skincare products always safer?
No. Natural and synthetic versions of the same ingredient are chemically identical. Safety depends on formulation quality, not origin.
Is fragrance always bad for skin?
No. Only 1–4% of people experience fragrance-related allergies. Most tolerate them well in balanced formulations.
Should I avoid jar packaging?
No. Modern preservative and stabilizing technologies make jar packaging safe and effective.
Does SPF 30 provide enough sun protection?
SPF 30 is effective, but SPF 50 offers 1.5x more protection, ideal for extended outdoor exposure.
Halla N, Fernandes IP, Heleno SA, Costa P, Boucherit-Otmani Z, Boucherit K, Rodrigues AE, Ferreira ICFR, Barreiro MF. Cosmetics Preservation: A Review on Present Strategies. Molecules. 2018; 23(7):1571. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6099538/
Min, R. (2025). Chemical Stability of Cosmetic Ingredients: Mechanisms of Degradation and Influencing Factors. Applied and Computational Engineering, 156, 35–40. https://www.ewadirect.com/proceedings/ace/article/view/25102#
Solanki, S. Natural vs. Synthetic Ingredients in Skincare Products: Is One Better and Safer Than the Other? https://ijnrd.org/papers/IJNRD2504484.pdf
Uter, W. Contact Allergy to Fragrances: Current Clinical and Regulatory Trends. Allergol Select. 2017; 1(2):190–199. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6040011/
Wilson, D., Moon, S., Armstrong, F. Comprehensive Review of Ultraviolet Radiation and the Current Status on Sunscreens. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2012; 5(9):18–23. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3460660/
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