Cleopatra’s legendary use of kohl not only beautified her eyes but also shielded them from infection, while Hippocrates prescribed willow bark extracts for pain relief centuries before aspirin was developed. [8] These iconic examples reveal how beauty and medicine were never far apart. Tracing when beauty concoctions merged into pharmacy is difficult, yet ancient societies, from Egyptian royals to Renaissance trendsetters, applied lotions and potions to enhance their appearance, often without realizing they were also practicing medicine. Even today, we often wonder whether that expensive face cream is purely cosmetic or has real therapeutic value. [7]
This article uncovers how ancient cosmetic concoctions, born from vanity, evolved into the cosmeceuticals, skincare ingredients, and pharmaceutical formulations that shape our medicine cabinets today.
From ancient times, people have used perfume not just for its scent but for the calm and richness it provides. According to a study, perfumes were used by athletes, aristocrats, politicians, and royalty; they served as medicinal agents or as a means of relief against lung and skin ailments. From scented oils used to adorn the body to incense burned at homes and temples, perfumes were a significant part of rituals, beauty, and commerce in the ancient world..[1] Yet, perfumes were not always safe—some early mixtures contained toxic resins or heavy-metal additives that irritated the lungs rather than healing them. [9] Today, in modern pharmacy formulations, perfumes have found new life, woven into everything from the subtle fragrances in everyday cosmetics to the therapeutic blends used in aromatherapy sessions and natural ingredients in pharmacy.
Kohl has been utilized traditionally as far back as the Bronze Age (c. 3500–1100 BCE) (Catherine, 2005). It was originally used as protection against eye ailments, and the darkening around the eyelids also provided relief from the glare of the sun.. [2] Kohl was the most frequently prescribed eye product in Persian medicine for strengthening and maintaining eye health, and also for improving vision. [3] But many traditional kohl recipes contained lead sulfide or galena, substances that could accumulate in the body and cause lead poisoning with prolonged use. [10] Despite this risk, kohl’s popularity endured, and its modern descendants—eyeliner pencils and kajal sticks—are formulated to be lead-free while keeping the dramatic look.
Salicylic acid is extracted naturally from the bark of white willow, birch leaves, and a variety of species of the savoy tree. [4] Its precursor, salicin, was recognized for its medicinal value as far back as ancient Greece, but in 1897 Bayer chemists developed acetylsalicylic acid (Aspirin), a more stable derivative. [6] Though salicylic acid became a trusted medicine, high doses can still be toxic, causing salicylate poisoning characterized by dizziness, ringing in the ears, and even organ damage if misused. [11] Today, salicylic acid has crossed from medicine cabinets into bathroom shelves, widely recognized as a powerful ingredient in acne creams, exfoliants, and anti-dandruff shampoos. What started as a medication has become one of the most widely used cosmetic ingredients today. It is used not only as an active ingredient but also as a preservative, thanks to its bactericidal and fungicidal properties.
Jojoba is a widely used medicinal plant that is cultivated worldwide. Its seeds and oil have a long history of use in folklore to treat various ailments such as skin and scalp disorders, superficial wounds, sore throat, obesity, and even cancer. They were also believed to improve liver function, enhance immunity, and promote hair growth. Extensive studies on jojoba oil have shown a wide range of pharmacological applications, including antioxidant, anti-acne, anti-psoriasis, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antipyretic, analgesic, antimicrobial, and antihyperglycemic activities. In addition, jojoba oil is widely used in the pharmaceutical industry, especially in cosmetics for topical, transdermal, and parenteral preparations. [5] Today, it is a star ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and shampoos marketed as “natural” skincare, prized for its compatibility with human skin.
This was just a small glimpse of how different beauty concoctions became part of our modern pharmacy evolution. Perfumes once used only for scents and rituals became part of aromatherapy and pharmaceutical formulations. Salicylic acid, once known only as the basis for Aspirin, gained importance as a key ingredient in today’s cosmeceuticals. And jojoba oil, once prized for its beautifying benefits, is now widely used for its pharmacological activities as well.
The history of cosmetics in medicine shows how beauty rituals and medicine have always overlapped. What was once poison became therapy, and what began as vanity transformed into pharmacy. From Cleopatra’s kohl lined with toxic lead, to Renaissance face powders laced with mercury, the dangers of beauty are as old as the desire itself. [9] Today’s booming cosmeceutical market, from anti-aging serums to therapeutic face masks, is proof that the blurred line between beauty and medicine is not new but a continuation of ancient traditions. In every bottle of perfume or jar of cream, there remains a trace of both perfume and poison—and a reminder that our pursuit of beauty has always doubled as a search for healing.
References:
Voudouri, Dimitra, and Christine Tesseromatis. “Perfumery from Myth to Antiquity.” International Journal of Medicine and Pharmacy 3, no. 2 (December 2015): 41–55. DOI: 10.15640/ijmp.v3n2a4. https://ijrpr.com/uploads/V5ISSUE6/IJRPR30668.pdf ijmp.thebrpi.org
Mahmood, Zafar Alam et al. “Kohl (Surma): Retrospect and Prospect.” Pakistan Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences 22, no. 1 (January 2009): 107–122. [Available via Academia.edu] https://www.academia.edu/3521749/Kohl_surma_retrospect_and_prospect Academia
Soleymani, Samaneh, and Arman Zargaran. “Kohl: An Ophthalmic Dosage Form in Persian Medicine, 1555 to 1853.” Pharmaceutical Historian 48, no. 2 (June 2018): 43–47. Published by the British Society for the History of Pharmacy. https://www.ingentaconnect.com/content/bshp/ph/2018/00000048/00000002/art00003# Ingenta Connect
Wiśniewska, A. “ACM-2023-03.” Aesthetic Cosmetology Magazine (2023). https://aestheticcosmetology.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/ACM-2023-03-vA-Wisniewska-EN.pdf
Polymers 13, no. 11 (2021): Article 1711. MDPI. https://www.mdpi.com/2073-4360/13/11/1711
Sneader, Walter. “The Discovery of Aspirin: A Reappraisal.” BMJ 321, no. 7276 (2000): 1591–1594. https://doi.org/10.1136/bmj.321.7276.1591
James, Sharon L. “Cleopatra, Cosmetics, and the Construction of Gender.” Classical World 100, no. 4 (2007): 371–383.
Raskin, David. “Hippocrates and the Willow: Medicine’s Ancient Painkiller.” Journal of the Royal Society of Medicine 100, no. 4 (2007): 176–177.
Milner, Sherrill. “Mercury in Cosmetics: Beauty’s Deadly Secret.” Ambix 36, no. 2 (1989): 55–72.
Nriagu, Jerome O. “Saturnine Gout Among Roman Aristocrats: Did Lead Poisoning Contribute to the Fall of the Empire?” New England Journal of Medicine 308, no. 11 (1983): 660–663.
Done, Alan K. “Salicylate Intoxication: Significance of Measurements of Salicylate in Blood in Cases of Acute Ingestion.” Pediatrics 26, no. 5 (1960): 800–807.
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